Egg Laying Kakariki And Possible Problems Arising From It.

 

All, if not most, female Kakariki will produce an egg at some point in her life. Most will start to lay even without a partner, from 4 months of age. Kakariki's at a younger age can produce lots of eggs up to 13. But Kakariki can produce eggs throughout their lives. This is a very natural thing for a bird to do and shouldn't be anything to worry about. However, problems can arise when a bird starts producing eggs, this article is intended to help Kakariki owners know when to expect, what to do and to spot the signs that something is wrong.

 

Many people are totally confused when their single female Kakariki suddenly lays an egg. A hen Kakariki does not need a mate to lay an egg. The difference in a egg laid by a single female is it will not be fertile, where as a female that is part of a pair can lay a fertile egg. A simple way of understanding why a single female produces eggs without a male present is to compare the situation to humans. Each month, women go through a menstrual cycle but don't get pregnant unless, of course, they have been fertilized by a male. The same applies to Kak’s, who can cycle without producing a fertile egg. A cycle will usually result in an unfertile egg.

 

During the time when a female Kakariki produces eggs, changes happen in her body that will need an aware owner to help with. An egg is made when yolk is released from the ovary into the oviduct, where it will take 3 weeks or so for the body to form a hard shell around the egg and expel it. This hard egg shell takes a lot of calcium to form, and a cycling Kakariki will need plenty of extra calcium in her diet to help her do this. If a cycling bird does not get an adequate supply in calcium, it can result in her eggs being deformed, soft-shelled and hypocalcaemia, which affects her bones. Extra calcium can be given to your bird in the form of a good supplement, like Calcivet Powder which contains vitamin D3. D3 enables the bird to absorb the calcium, and a Kakariki usually gets a good supply of D3 through natural daylight. This is why it is always a good idea to place your Kakariki’s cage where it can receive natural light (not too much direct sunlight), so your Kakariki can get its own supply of D3. Cuttlebone should always be made available for your Kakariki but contrary to what people say, it isn't a good enough source of calcium to be relied upon, especially during cycling. You can feed your Kakariki crushed up egg shell, egg food, and egg biscuits to aid with calcium supply.

 

When a Kakariki is cycling, you may notice that she is more active and playful than normal, showing affection towards her toys or you and regurgitating seed as a sign of affection towards the favourite toy or to herself in a mirror. She can seem incredibly excited when at play, and a clear sign that she is cycling is when her tail goes up vertically, accompanied by soppy. This is when the hen ovulates, and she usually does this during mating with a mate. If there isn't one, she will do it to you or her toys. You may also notice her increased appetite and a slight weight gain, which is her conditioning herself to lay. She will try to prepare a nesting area. You may find her sitting in the seed bowl and kicking out all the seed or digging Easi Bed on the bottom of her cage. She may even fancy the wall paper as a nesting material and start stripping it off!

I will now try to explain the problems that can happen to a cycling Kakariki, what can cause them, how to spot them, and what to do if they occur.

　

　

Egg Binding

 

Symptoms

 

Egg binding is when a bird produces an egg and cannot lay it. There can be various reasons for the occurrence of egg binding. Egg binding is very serious, and an avian vet must be consulted right away if you suspect your bird may be egg bound. Your vet can then treat your bird by keeping her warm and giving her fluids, antibiotics to prevent infection from the egg, and a drug like Oxytocin that encourages the contractions needed to pass the egg. Your vet may also find it necessary to insert a hollow needle into the egg and drain the contents to relieve the pressure on the surrounding organs. Your bird should then pass the shell on its own with the help of the drugs. Failing that, surgical removal may be necessary.

 

Sitting on the floor a lot. She may sit on the floor lots to lay, but if she is there all the time for long periods, she may be having problems. Excessive straining. You may notice her contracting in the stomach area and panting/breathing heavily. This is a sure sign that she is in trouble. Visual clues, such as a large swollen looking area around her vent. You will see this whether or not the bird is egg bound if she has an egg, but if it is very obvious and she is not passing it and it is there for a long time, she will be having problems. Larger droppings. The presence of the egg in the oviduct means that there is less room for the Kakariki to pass droppings, and you will notice that your Kakariki goes less frequently. When she does go, you will see her straining hard, and a huge dropping will come out. These big poops can be unbelievable large. The bigger the poops get, the closer the egg is to the cloacae, where it is due to be expelled. If they are huge for days, your bird is likely to be having trouble passing that egg.

 

Egg binding is a serious condition that will almost certainly result in death if an avian vet is not consulted. The reason that it is so fatal is because of the pressure an egg can put on the surrounding organs. A Kakariki has all its organs stored in such a small area, as the body cavity of a Kakariki is so small. An egg that is inside a Kakariki for too long can put pressure on the kidneys, liver, and nerves. Pressure on the kidneys and liver can stop them from working properly, resulting in increased toxins in the blood that can cause death. This is why it is such an emergency. Another problem caused by a prolonged egg in the oviduct is nerve damage. The pressure can kill nerves leading to the feet and legs, which can paralyze all or part of the leg or feet/claws.

 

What Can Be Done?

 

If you are unable to get your Kakariki to a vet straight away, there are small things you can do to help your bird. Heat will help the muscles in the oviduct wall contract, and it is a good idea to keep your bird warm by placing a heat pad under the cage floor where she is sitting so that the heat can help her. DO NOT put the heat mat inside the cage itself, as you don't want to burn or overheat your bird, especially if she is unable to move. The heat pad must be secured to the underside of the cage and only on one side to create a thermal gradient - a warm end and a cold end. Applying a lubricant to the vent like cod-liver oil with a cue tip will help also add this to water and seed, I would advise the adding of this to seed to be a common practice as it does help to keep egg binding to a minimal.

 

Prevention

 

Egg binding can be caused by a few different reasons. General unfitness can cause it. If a Kakariki is unfit, overweight, and doesn't get enough exercise, the muscles may not be strong enough to expel the egg. In Kakariki who are never allowed to exercise by being kept in their cage all day, or in Kakariki that have had their wings clipped and cannot fly. (Which Should Never Be Done) It is also common in Kakariki that are fed solely a seed-based diet, Hence why I strongly promote a heathy fruit and veg diet, and chicken and mealworms is essential to all Kakariki’s to keep them as healthy as possible for the longest time as possible.

 

If you find your Kakariki is prone to egg binding, it is best to discourage any kind of nesting behaviour. Reduce her daylight hours, give her less fattening treats like millet, and remove any nesting materials that she may have from her cage.

 

Calcium, as I mentioned before, is very important in a cycling Kakariki, and I cannot stress enough how important it is that they get enough. A lack of calcium in a cycling bird can cause soft-shelled eggs to form in the oviduct that the Kakariki cannot push out. Also, the muscle action needed to expel the egg can be weak without adequate calcium. She will start using her own body's supply of calcium to make eggs if she isn't supplemented enough, which can make her bones weak, fragile, and easily breakable. She will get generally weaker and weaker, eventually resulting in death if she keeps using her own calcium, so you must remember to supplement her when she is cycling. Personally I ensure there is calcium all year round.

 

I also believe that the age of the Kakariki is also very relevant to egg binding, as an older bird who is less fit will find it harder to pass an egg. An older bird will need more calcium to support her in general, so an older bird that is using calcium for general bone support and egg-making is very likely to have problems with egg binding. In Kakariki the same can be said about young hens, hens under 12 months of age again have huge issues with calcium and can easily result in problems. Many Kak’s start laying from 4 months of age singletons or paired, these eggs must be allowed to be laid but, calcium should be very available when she has finished laying all her eggs these should be substituted for dummy eggs or her eggs shaken or pinned to ensure none hatch, its not always advisable to remove the eggs as this could encoursge her to continue laying cousing what is known as habitual laying. Breeding prior to 12 months of age often leads to rejection and plucking babies.

 

Egg Peritonitis

 

Egg Peritonitis is another condition related to egg production that can be fatal to your Kakariki. It is caused by yolk fluid leaking from the oviduct and ovaries into the abdominal cavity. The fluid can build up there, causing a visible swelling of the abdomen. From there, the yolk can get into the blood stream and poison your bird, and it can get laid down in the liver, causing an enlarged liver and liver damage.

 

Egg Peritonitis can make your Kakariki very sick and is it difficult to treat. It has much better results if caught early. There are good treatments now around for Egg Peritonitis and some Kakariki’s do make a full recovery. Treatment involves using a diuretic like Furosemide to clear away the fluid and drugs like Milk Thistle to help the liver repair itself plus antibiotics to prevent further infection.

 

Symptoms are very similar to egg binding, with the swelling, the large poops, and panting. The difference is that a Kakariki with Egg Peritonitis will not put on any extra weight like an egg-laying bird and the swelling will be more internal. An egg can be felt as a solid swelling by the vent, and the swelling from Peritonitis isn't so solid to the touch. It is visible by making the Kakariki look bloated in the abdomen and vent area. Your Kakariki may sit on the floor a lot with her tail up vertically against the side of the cage for comfort from the swelling. She may spend time on the floor, without all the nesting behaviour she will display if she has an egg and sleep like that, with her tail up vertically. Her behaviour prior to this can be just as fruity with the toys, as if she was cycling an egg. Her droppings may appear with a whitish yellow in the regular dark green colouring and be large, again from the swelling inside.

 

It is very hard to distinguish between egg binding and Egg Peritonitis unless you have experience and even then, an x-ray may well be done to be sure.