DEALING WITH MALE HORMONES AND AGGRESSIVE BEHAVIOUR 

 

Despite reports on some sites that hand rearing has a bearing on this behaviour it is totally untrue and quite irresponsible and misleading to suggest otherwise with no scientific proof what so ever other than a dislike for hand rearing. Both hand reared, and parent reared, and even our aviary birds can and do display this behaviour, it's perfectly normal, natural behaviour. Kakariki’s can bite and they can break the skin and draw blood. New owners of a pet Kakariki are often inexperienced, a situation could get worse even before they realize what is happening, or find out what they should do. We have heard of several sad stories of pet Kak’s, usually males losing homes because of their biting habit. This usually happens in the first year. More males seem to have this trouble than females. If you and your Kakariki get through the first year, you are past the worst.

 

Out of our two pet Kakariki’s Tyson & Keiko, only Tyson had a biting problem incidentally both were hand reared. Here is the lesson we have learnt during his difficult time. We also examine some triggers to the hormone rise that often causes aggressive behaviour. 

 

Hormone Rise 

 

The most noticeable reason for their aggressiveness is a rise in hormones during the first 12 months of their life and at different points throughout the year. Kakariki’s are generally good breeders, which means that given a chance, they are likely to be overcharged with hormones. Our Kakariki’s main breeding season is early spring. Like most birds in the UK, during this period, they are more intense, active, and vocal. They can also appear frustrated. Even so, they seldom bite out of the blue unless there is a trigger or two. 

 

Trigger One - A Nest Site 

 

In our observation, regardless of the existence of a mate or not, a potential nest site is a main trigger to make our male Kakariki’s aggressive. They become very protective over the site and defend from anyone especially other male Kak’s. This also explains why so many have difficulties colony breeding them.

 

Territory 

 

Similar to the above, during this period, they are likely to become obsessive over their cages. They see us invading their territories when we put a hand inside the cage, even to change food dishes. They instinctively attack our hands. 

 

What To Do When Your Kakariki Is Acting Up? 

 

First of all NEVER, EVER flick the beak, I have recently unassociated myself with another Kakariki Facebook group, when the person that runs it advised one of his members who had bought a hand tamed Kakariki from him to do this. This resulted in the bird being knocked clean out. this poor person got in touch with a memember of our Facebook group as she was petrified of her pet and very inexperienced and the bird was re-homed with our member and is now well cared for.

 

Once Tyson became very hormonal, we did not purposely try to handle him. We found that ignoring any aggressive behaviour systematically is the best way. But still there was what seemed to be unprovoked attacks, while sitting on us these would come out the blue somtimes with little to no warning. Occasionally he would stay in the cage, if he refused to come out we did not worry, they are far too inquisitive to become cage bound. First thing in the morning is usually the worst time, for cock birds like many other bird species they produce sperm overnight. By late afternoon, male Kakariki’s should be calmer. So wait until late afternoon to take him out. Even if he refused to come out for the whole day, as long as they have a spacious cage (I hope he/she does!), there is no need to worry.

 

There is normally two phases in Tyson’s aggression. First, he stares at my hand and refuses the step up command, and attacks my hand, if this happens I leave him in the cage, and let Keiko out.

Second stage is that he steps up like lightning, then attacks the hand or the face given the chance. We ignore him. Luckily Kakariki’s can't tear flesh off. Yes, it's painful, but all our fingers stay where they are. He usually gets upset by the lack of reaction and calms down. When he threatens our hands while he is outside the cage. We make a tight fist, he is less likely to find a bit he can bite and we present it to his beak. Never pull it back until he retreats.

We found counteractive things to do are: pointing at him with a finger, waving an index finger in front of his face, shouting at him.

 

When you are bitten, the most important thing to remember is that once you pull your hand away, even slightly, he will bite you harder, faster and many more times. If he thinks that, he is dominant  one, he will test his limits and this reinforces his dominance. Make a tight fist and don't pull away whatever happens. Kakariki’s can bite, but they can't break your bone thanks to their small beaks. You might have to endure the pain, but if you pull away you will have to endure it for good. Before too long, he will stop biting if you don't pull your hands away. 

 

Reading Their Mood.

 

How do I know whether they are in a bad mood? Luckily it is easy to read their mood. Their cute black round eyes become less round and look mean (see background picture), when their hormones rise. Their heads become sleek and flatter, they pinpoint the eyes and flash them like neon. This is the first warning between Kakariki’s, at this point a subordinate Kakariki usually flies away. Next, opening the beak towards you. This is the final warning before striking. Then finally lunging. 

 

Sexual Behaviour - Regurgitation & Mating 

 

Both Tyson & Keiko regurgitate to objects once their hormone levels rise. They eat their own regurgitated food, regurgitation seems to be very strong urge because they both try to feed each other once in a while.

Conclusion

 

Although they are smart birds, Kakariki’s are not humans. They are not capable of complicated thoughts. They seem to be able to have only one thought or feeling at the same time. For example, if your hand comes into his cage, he feels he has to defend the cage because it’s his territory being intruded. He likes you, but that is put aside when he is angry. Once he calms down he remembers that he likes you. There is no point in you getting angry at them. The only thing to over-ride in my observation is your own fear, which is essential to survival. So relax and enjoy.